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36 Views / Understanding the Castle

Himeji Castle Illustrated

How do those overlapping roofs connect?
What lies inside the white keep?

Knowing how the castle is built reveals new details, even in a familiar view. A little reading before your visit, or before raising your camera.

Understanding the Layout

Four Connected Keeps

Three smaller keeps stand around the main keep. Four roofed passage towers, called watari-yagura, connect them around a courtyard.

North-up plan: Inui Keep to the northwest, East Keep to the northeast, West Keep to the southwest, and the Main Keep to the southeast. Four passages surround a courtyard.
Schematic roof plan seen from above. Roof shapes and building sizes are simplified; this is not a measured plan.

Not one keep, but four connected buildings

The main keep commands attention from the front, but the Inui, East and West keeps stand around it. The I, Ro, Ha and Ni passage towers connect them. The term renritsu-shiki, a linked group of keeps, becomes easier to understand when you follow the roofs.

Positions, roof tiers and floors
Main Keep Southeast
5 exterior roof tiers / 6 floors above ground and 1 basement level
Inui Keep Northwest
3 exterior roof tiers / 4 floors above ground and 1 basement level
East Keep Northeast
3 exterior roof tiers / 3 floors above ground and 1 basement level
West Keep Southwest
3 exterior roof tiers / 3 floors above ground and 2 basement levels

The number of exterior roof tiers does not necessarily match the number of interior floors. Floor counts follow the City of Himeji designated cultural properties list.

Himeji Castle from Otokoyama, with the roofs of three smaller keeps layered in front of the main keep.
Photograph: Toji MasayaView No.07: the keeps amid fresh greenery from Otokoyama

Sources: Himeji Castle: Enjoying the Castle (Japanese); City of Himeji: designated cultural properties (Japanese PDF); Official Himeji Castle guide, pp.43–46 (Japanese PDF)

Inside the Keep

Two Great Pillars

One to the east, one to the west. The two 24.6-metre pillars rise from the basement to just beneath the sixth floor, the topmost floor of the keep.

Schematic section of the main keep. The red west and east pillars extend from the basement to beneath the sixth-floor boards, connecting with horizontal members. They do not reach the roof.
The two great pillars are shown in red. This schematic explains their relationship to the floors and horizontal members; it is not a measured drawing. The west pillar’s third-floor joint is simplified. The east pillar’s repaired base joint and fine joinery are omitted.

Look beyond the pillars to the connecting timbers

Both pillars connect to horizontal timbers at each floor. Look at how these members fit together as well as at the massive posts themselves, and the timber framework hidden behind the castle’s exterior begins to emerge.

The west pillar joint and four structural groups

The west pillar consists of two timbers joined at the third-floor level. The keep can also be understood as four structural groups: basement to second floor, third floor, fourth floor, and fifth to sixth floors. The great pillars and horizontal timbers connect these groups.

The diagram marks the location of the joint, not its actual joinery profile.

On Site / Before the Paid Entrance

See the old west pillar before entering the keep

In Sannomaru, before the paid entrance, the old west pillar that once supported the keep is on display. It served for roughly 350 years before being replaced during the major Showa restoration. It is not the pillar standing inside today, but seeing that long timber lying before you conveys a scale that is difficult to grasp inside the building.

The old west pillar extends deep into its exhibition shelter, revealing its length and thickness.
A close view, at ground level, of the timber that supported the keep.Photograph: Toji Masaya / 17 March 2026

An upper and a lower timber make one pillar

The old west pillar joined a lower section of fir (momi) to an upper section of hemlock (tsuga), above the third-floor boards. Compare the display labels 上柱 (upper pillar) and 下柱 (lower pillar): what appeared to be one great post was made from two trees.

The upper pillar is at the back, the lower pillar in front, and a separate third-floor beam between them. Tool marks and repairs remain visible on the wood.
Upper timber at the back, lower timber in front. The beam between them is a separate member. These are the old timbers displayed apart, not the pillar assembled at its joint.Photograph: Toji Masaya / 17 March 2026

The surfaces also bear cuts for connections to other members and traces of later repairs. Not every visible notch belongs to the joint between the upper and lower timbers.

East and west: different reasons for joining

West pillar
Originally made from an upper and lower timber. Replaced with new hinoki cypress during the Showa restoration, it still consists of two sections joined at the third-floor level.
East pillar
Originally one unjointed fir timber. During the Showa restoration, its bottom 5.4 metres were replaced with Taiwan cypress and spliced to the retained original timber above.

“Two timbers in the west, one in the east” does not fully describe the pillars today. The east pillar also has a splice where its damaged base was replaced. Their differences tell a story of both original construction and the repairs needed to preserve it.

The new west pillar was meant to be one timber

During the major Showa restoration (1956–1964), decay was found inside the old west pillar and replacement became necessary. The plan was to use a single long hinoki cypress timber.

But the selected log broke while being hauled out of the mountains. Two timbers were therefore joined at the third-floor level, as before. The present west pillar still bears witness to the challenges faced by the restoration team.

Sources: Japan Tourism Agency: The Old West Pillar (English). Photographs of the joint during the restoration are also available in Himeji Castle’s Showa restoration photographs: great pillars (Japanese).

The display sign and the old pillar’s dimensions

The sign lists an upper timber of 12.4 metres, a lower timber of 14.5 metres and an overlap of 2.2 metres at the joint. Subtracting that overlap from the combined lengths gives a total of 24.7 metres.

The 24.7-metre figure comes from the sign for the old pillar on display. The structural diagram above uses 24.6 metres, as given in the official guide’s description of the great pillars.

Japanese information sign describing the west pillar’s timber, replacement and dimensions, and the east pillar’s repaired base. Its main points are translated in the text.
The on-site sign used for this explanation. It also describes the repair to the east pillar’s base.Photograph: Toji Masaya / 17 March 2026
Himeji at night, seen past a shachi roof ornament from the top floor of the main keep.
Photograph: Toji Masaya / View from the top floorView No.28: shachi roof ornaments and the night view

Sources: On-site Old West Pillar sign (photographed 17 March 2026); Japan Tourism Agency: The Old West Pillar (English); Official guide, p.47: continuous-pillar construction (Japanese PDF); Hyogo Prefectural Museum of History: Himeji Castle (Japanese). The display location is as observed on the photography date. For current access, consult the official Himeji Castle website (Japanese) and on-site signs.

Reading the Roof Details

Gables and Ornaments

Hafu are the gables that shape the roofline; gegyo are the pendants beneath them. Compare the triangles, curves and small ornaments at their tips to discover the character of these overlapping roofs.

Japanese-labelled comparison of irimoya, chidori and noki-karahafu gables; kabura, mitsubana-kabura and umebachi pendants; unokedoshi and kaerumata. A translated key follows.
Roof outlines and the ornaments beneath them. The original diagram retains its Japanese labels; the matching terms and explanations are given below.

Three kinds of gable

Irimoya-hafu 入母屋破風
The triangular gable at the end of a hip-and-gable roof. Its connection to the main roof ridge distinguishes it from a chidori-hafu.
Chidori-hafu 千鳥破風
A decorative, subsidiary gable projecting from partway down a roof. It gives the main roof an accent; examples with windows also admit daylight.
Noki-karahafu 軒唐破風
A gently curved karahafu gable incorporated into the eaves. Its flowing outline contrasts with the triangular gables.

Gegyo: pendants beneath the gable

A gegyo hangs at the central tip of a gable and conceals the end of the ridge timber. Look for these three forms at Himeji Castle.

Kabura-gegyo 蕪懸魚
A form widely used on the keeps. Notice the outline hanging down from the centre.
Mitsubana-kabura-gegyo 三花蕪懸魚
A combination of three kabura forms, producing a more elaborate silhouette that spreads to both sides.
Umebachi-gegyo 梅鉢懸魚
A pentagonal pendant often used on chidori gables.
Unokedoshi and kaerumata: compare their positions

兎毛通 (unokedoshi) is a horizontally extended pendant fitted to a curved karahafu gable. 蟇股 (kaerumata), shown in green in the diagram, is a different member on the small wall below the curved eaves. Position, as well as shape, helps distinguish them.

Source: Himeji City Castle Research Center: Basic Knowledge of Himeji Castle (Japanese)

Illustration